The
popular image of Courchevel is of an expensive, jet-set type resort where the well-heeled and the famous
go to play, and everything is consequently priced out of reach of the average
holidaymaker. In fact this is only an aspect of Courchevel, and a minor
one at that. True, if you could afford it, you could stay at the Hotel Byblos de
Neige and rub shoulders with Richard Branson; but you can also find good
accommodation, food, drink and entertainment at prices similar to those of other
popular French resorts, such as Val d’Isere and Les Deux Alps – the high
pound makes it better value too. The important thing to remember is that when
you step out onto the snow, you are stepping onto the same snow as
Richard or any other billionaire, and have equal rights to it - and the skiing
in Courchevel is acknowledged as amongst the finest in the world.
Generally Courchevel is lively and friendly, and has become very popular with British skiers over years. You hear English spoken wherever you go. There are many Brits working in the bars and restaurants and most of the locals speak good English too.
Looking along Rue de Verdons towards the centre of 1850
Structurally Courchevel is an expansive resort with a very large ski area accessible from five separate subcentres, or villages. They are known by their heights in metres as: Courchevel 1850, Courchevel 1650 (Moriond), Courchevel 1550, Courchevel 1300 (Le Praz), and La Tania (1350m). The five locations connect up by road, ski lift and piste, so you can get from one to another fairly easily.
Connectivity between the different parts of the Courchevel resort by road, lift and ski run
(simplified and not to scale)
Courchevel 1850 is the largest of the group and the centre of the ski and
après-ski action. Everything in 1850 revolves around the Croisette, a large
hangar-like lift station which houses the Tourist Office, Ski School HQ, Post
Office and banks. This where the skiing day in 1850 traditionally begins, and is
often the first stop for skiers coming up from 1550 and 1350. The
"village" of 1850 is strung around the Croisette in a loose horse-shoe
shape, and if one is centrally based then everything of importance is within
reasonable walking distance. The best of the bars, shops and restaurants are to
be found in 1850, and this is where the serious après-ski happens.
Courchevel 1650, originally the hamlet of
Moriond, is located in the next
valley to the east of 1850, and is like a mini-resort in its own right, complete
with its own ski area, set upon the sunny slopes of Col de Chanrossa. There are
several links going both ways between the 1650 and 1850 ski areas, but none at
resort level. This is no problem since the ski bus - free with your lift pass -
will take you from one to the other. 1650 has a pleasant atmosphere, and a good
range of bars and restaurants which make it a useful daytime or early evening
stopover point. Later in the evening though it tends to be rather quiet apart from one or two music bars.
Courchevel 1550 has less of an atmosphere than its two higher cousins and is in truth a purpose-built dormitory station with basic amenities. But it is well positioned, just a short lift ride away from 1850, and it does have a very good pizzeria and a couple of lively bars. Moonlight permitting, it is possible to ski back to 1550 from 1850 after dark - but don't try this if you've had too many beers!
Courchevel 1300, or Le Praz, is a real village with a rustic charm that
predates skiing by hundreds of years. It has quaint narrow streets and buildings
of ancient stone and weathered wood. There is a lake near the Olympic ski jump
which is a beauty spot in summer, good for fishing. Le Praz is generally quieter
than 1850, but it still has some okay bars on the fringe opposite the lift
station, and one very good restaurant - Le Bistro du Praz. As with 1550 the
easiest way to get higher up is by ski lift.